Complete Outer Hebrides TRAVEL GUIDE

If you have never heard of the Outer Hebrides, prepare to be blown away by the beauty of the UK’s largest island chain. Named one of Lonely Planets’ top travel destinations in 2020 and one of the top 100 greatest travel experiences in the world - the only one in the UK - by Wanderlust magazine, the Outer Hebrides are becoming increasingly popular with travellers from all over the world.

There are diverse landscapes and fascinating history on the islands with something for everyone. Expect scenic drives and star gazing, wide-open spaces, and dramatic coastlines. The Hebrides are a place to relax, spend the whole day watching the ocean or walking along the coastline, hopping from beach to beach, and enjoying the quiet life.

— Getting There + Getting Away —

Car & Ferry : There are five ferry crossings from the mainland to various islands however the most popular ones are at the north and south at Stornoway and Barra. Ferries can be fully booked over the summer months so buy your tickets well in advance from Calmac. Throughout the shoulder season and winter months, bad weather and storms can delay and even cancel ferries for days at a time so bear this in mind and be flexible with your plans.

Ullapool - Stornoway | 2hr30m // Tarbet - Uig (Skye) | 1hr40m // Lochmaddy - Uig (Skye) | 1hr45m // Lochboisdale - Mallaig | 5hr30m // Castlebay - Oban | 5hr10m

Flight & Car Rental : There are frequent direct flights from cities such as Glasgow, Manchester, Edinburgh, and Belfast which are mainly operated by Loganair. These can book up fairly fast so do book in advance. The flight times are short, usually under 1 hour. You can rent a car on the island, Carhire Hebrides offers a one-way service so you don’t have to retrace your steps, or in this case, miles!

Public Transport : The bus service throughout the islands is regular and on time, however, can be infrequent so planning is a must if you are relying on buses. They don’t stop off at every beach or tourist location so you can just ask the driver where you are going and they will let you off as close as possible, but this could still be a long walk away.

Cycling & Walking : The Hebridean Way is a 185-mile path for cyclists and walkers, connecting all 10 islands and taking you from Barra in the south to the Butt Of Lewis in the north. Cycling holidays are very popular in the Outer Hebrides for the beautiful roads and challenging rides. The cycling route takes about 6 days, although it’s recommended to take your time and enjoy everything the islands have to offer. Find some more information about the route and daily mileage on the Visit Outer Hebrides Website. The walking route takes a slightly different path, from Barra to Stornoway, and covers 156 miles of waymarked paths and trails through the landscape.

— How Long To Stay —

There are so many places to see and things to do throughout the Outer Hebrides, you want to take your time and immerse yourself in the laid-back atmosphere the islands have. If you are tackling the whole island chain, you are going to want a minimum of three to four weeks to see the highlights. For Lewis and Harris, two weeks should be enough to see the main areas. After living here for nearly 4 years, there are still new places to explore so expect to be drawn back again and again.

— Where To Stay —

Holiday Homes : There is so much accommodation available, from the basic croft huts with just a little sink and bed to entire homes overlooking the most incredible beaches. Book well in advance as there are limited accommodation options, particularly if you are visiting during the summer.

Campsites + Free Camping : Across the islands, many campsites have full facilities available. Laxdale and Shawbost campsite on Lewis and Horgabost on Harris are the most popular and there are many other smaller places with electric hook up and toilets scattered across the islands. You can wild camping in a tent which is legal across most of the island, just make sure to only stay one night, camp away from people’s homes, and take all your rubbish with you. There are some places across the islands where you can stay overnight in your vehicle free of charge like Gary Beach car park or Barvas beach, however, do be sure to check for no overnight parking signs. If you do decide to free camp, please be respectful of the surrounding area, parking responsibility, and follow the leave no trace principles.

— When To Visit —

After living on Lewis for three years, I've seen all sides of island life. But if there is one ever-changing thing, it's the weather. Sunshine, wind, snow, storms, the islands see it all in one day. I have found the best weather to be the shoulder season, April and May, then September and October. This is the time when the days are long and warm but the islands are fairly quiet and there are few midges about.

Spring : In my opinion, Spring has the best weather you can hope for. You could still get small winter storms but these normally only last a day or two. In April and May the islands are just starting to wake up from their winter hibernation and the days become longer and warmer. Migrating birds like lapwings and curlews are nesting and if you are lucky, you can spot their babies exploring the moors.

Summer : When summer arrives, blue skies and crystal clear waters beckon you to the beaches for cool dips and relaxation. Cafes and shops are fully open and the number of visitors boom. The weather can still be changeable even in summer, so pack a jumper and a raincoat for those unexpected showers. Midges can be a nuisance during calm days so repellent is a must.

Autumn : During autumn, the moors turn shades of red and purple in the afternoon sun, and the visitor numbers start to decrease. The red deer rutting and roaring season is something spectacular to witness and the midges make a retreat. Roads are quieter and accommodation prices are lower.

Winter : The islands retreat inwards during the winter and many smaller cafes and shops will have reduced opening hours or close completely. Expect stormy weather mixed with calm winter sun, 6-hour days, and dark star-filled skies. The northern lights can be seen on clear nights and beaches are deserted. Although the wind is bitter and the grey skies can seem endless, there is still so much beauty in the wild and windswept islands.

— Travel Tips —

Shops & Fuel : Stock up on groceries while in Stornoway from the two main supermarkets because throughout the rest of the islands, expect to only find small community shops and garages which sell the essentials. There are garages dotted about the islands so be sure to fill your tank when you can.

Sundays : Much like stepping back in time, most shops and garages are closed on Sundays so be sure to schedule this into your holiday. Cafes and attractions are closed, so Sundays are typically spent in the outdoors, enjoying a walk or the beach. There are some garages open in Stornoway on Sunday but check their opening times to make sure.

Phones & Cash : There is fairly good service throughout the islands but not everywhere, such as in areas of Tolsta, Uig, and Husinish. Cash points can be few and far between so be sure to keep some spare cash with you although most places will accept cash and card.

— The Best Things To See & Do —

Find Some Ancient Monuments : Scattered throughout the islands, ancient stone circles and neolithic stone structures can be explored. There have even been mummies found from 1300BC in South Uist. The Callanish Standing Stones are the island’s most popular visitor attraction and it’s not hard to see why. Over 40 stones rise from the earth creating a magical and mysterious atmosphere where you can wander around the site, touch the stones and feel the energy of this ancient monument. The center stone is 4.8 meters high and weighs over 7 tonnes, making you question how people ever got it there over 5000 years old, before Stonehenge even existed. No one knows why they were built or what they were used for but it’s thought they were made to be an astronomical observatory. There are many other standing stone sites scattered across the islands, Callanish 2 and 3 are well worth a visit and are just a short walk from the main standing stones. There is so much ancient history to be found throughout the islands so be sure to explore just a few.

Experience Crofting Life & Learn Some History : The islands have a long and rich history of working with the land with many traditions still being practiced today. Crofting, peat cutting, and weaving are all large parts of the culture of the islands and there are many places to find out about the history of the Outer Hebrides.

• Blackhouses : Two of the best places to immerse yourself in history are the Arnol Blackhouse and the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. Here you can go inside the historic homes of the islanders and find out how people lived and thrived in this remote island chain for so many years.

• Harris Tweed Weaving : Harris Tweed has a rich history throughout the Outer Hebrides and you can visit the Harris Tweed Museum in Stornoway for a deeper history of the fabric. You can also visit various weavers on the islands, like The Weaving Shed in Crossbost where you will be able to see a loom and speak to a local weaver.

Find A Beach All To Yourself : With almost 100 beaches in the Outer Hebrides, you truly are spoilt for choice and you will frequently find that you have the whole beach to yourself.

• Luskentyre : One of the most popular beaches of all the islands, Luskentyre does not disappoint. Enjoy the views over to Harris at sunrise or sunset for the dramatic skies, and visit nearby Nisabost Beach and Seilebost Beach for even more beautiful views.

• Uig : Uig Sands is a beautiful stretch of white sand with a nearby camping area and facilities. Be sure not to miss Cliff Beach and Reef Beach, both of which are equally as gorgeous.

• Berneray : Named the third best beach in Europe by Lonely Planet, be sure to stop at West Beach on Berneray. So beautiful that a Thai tourism board actually mistook it for one of its own and used the photo to promote Thailand!

Climb To The Highest Peak In The Islands : The short but steep hike up the Clisham takes 3-4 hours of fairly intense hiking, but the views are so worth the effort! The 3.25-mile trail takes you up 600m elevation gain and the path can be boggy to begin and loose stones towards to top, so good walking boots and plenty of water is needed. If you are up for the challenge you will be rewarded with one of the best viewpoints over Lewis and Harris.

Touchdown On A Beach Runway : If you are flying to the islands, the best way to arrive would be at Barra’s unique airport - it's the only place on earth where scheduled commercial flights land right on the beach. Yes, the runway is made of sand and flights have to coincide with the low tide. A truly one-of-a-kind experience that won't be found anywhere else in the world.

Take A Boat Trip To St Kilda : Abandoned in the 1930s due to increasingly harsh conditions, the rocky island of St Kilda rises from the ocean some 40 miles offshore. It is now home to only a few seasonal people and the largest colony of seabirds which include gannets and puffins. To get to this dual world heritage site, you will have to brave a 3-hour boat journey. Once on the island, you will be greeted by a National Trust warden and allowed to wander around the abandoned village, then get some warm drinks before heading back onto the boat to marvel at the spectacular sea stacks and cliffs.

Spot Wildlife From The Coastline : There is so much wildlife in the Outer Hebrides to be found from the large red deer and pods of dolphins to eagles soaring in the sky to seabirds lining the cliffs. Apart from some migratory seabirds, wildlife can be spotted all year round.

• Whales & Dolphins : There are three spots where shore watches take place, Tiumpan Head on Point, Scalpay Lighthouse, Harris, and Rodel on Harris. Head to Tiumpan Head for the best chance to see some marine mammals where pods of dolphins, minke whales, and even orcas are frequently spotted. Look on the Tiumpan Head Watchers for up-to-date sightings.

• Red Deer : Lewis and Harris have a thriving population of red deer which are best spotted in the early morning and evening from the roadside. The best places to spot them are at Garynahine in Lewis and the road leading to Hushinish on Harris. Autumn is when the rutting season starts and their roars can be heard echoing around the glens for miles.

• Sea Birds & Birds Of Prey : White tail eagles, golden eagles, buzzards, and sparrowhawks are all frequent sightings around the islands along with various sea birds like cormorants, curlew, red-throated divers, and the rarely spotted corncrake.

• Otters : For the lucky few, spotting an otter while in the Outer Hebrides will be a very special moment. Otters are very shy animals that are best seen in the early morning or late evening and take a lot of patience to find. Look for them by the shore with a freshwater stream or loch close by.

Is the Outer Hebrides on your travel bucket list? Let me know in the comments!